Hi,

I'm (finally) going to fit my empeg into my car.

Are there any pictures/schemata for the wiring available ?
I have read so many different things here that I'm totally confused.

I have 4 outputs on the empeg (E1-E4).
I have 4 inputs on my amp (A1-A4).
I have power and ground on the amp (AP, AG)
I have loads of wires on the empeg (ISO-Connector is in the car).

What goes where ?
Especially: How to ground what and where ?

And yes: What are the requirements for the pcon-cable ?

thanks
anti
ps:
I will do the fitting on the weekend, so if I forget a part I'm stuffed ....


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MKII 08000073 12GB BLUE

It's not that complicated.

Do following:

I have 4 outputs on the empeg (E1-E4).
I have 4 inputs on my amp (A1-A4).

Connect the outputs of the empeg with the inputs of the amp.
Then connect the outputs of the amp (=speaker outputs) with the speakers
- viola - the connection for the soundoutput is done.


I have power and ground on the amp (AP, AG)

The power and ground of the amp have nothing to do with the empeg.
If you make a clean install then connect the power and ground line directly to the battery. (Remember to use a fuse-box on the +12V cable to avoid any damage either on your car or on the amp!)
- viola - the amp now has working power.


I have loads of wires on the empeg (ISO-Connector is in the car).

You have following wires on the empeg:
One amp-remote (don't know what it's called at the connector): This is for switching on the amp. Just connect it to the 3rd (switching) connector on the amp.
One ground: Connect this ground with the ground of your car.
One (battery)+12V: Connect this with the battery (via fuse box). (The ground and +12V is the powersupply for the empeg)
One ignition sense: Connect it with your car's ignition cable. (it's also +12V but it's only function is to switch on the empeg.)
One headlight connector: Connect it with your car's headlight/dashlight cable (if you have one). It's not needed to run the empeg. It's just for switching the empeg's display from bright to dark level (adjustable) when you switch on your car's headlights.
- viola - your empeg is now connected and should be working.

The empeg also has:
A microphone input - That's the 3.5mm jack on the docking sled
An AUX input - That's for connecting an additional audio-source (eg. another headunit, CD, ..)
A serial cable - You could connect your control stick for example

If your car already has an ISO-Connector (it usually has) check out that it's pins are in the same place as they are on the empeg's ISO-connector (in some car's they are different - eg. VW/Audi, Peugeot - check this before connecting)


Especially: How to ground what and where ?

You have to ground the amp and you have to ground the empeg. without grounding they won't run.

Good luck on installing your Mk2 - Have Fun!

TeeMcBee
Got my Mk2! # 080000143

Did you not get a user guide with your player? Every connection is documented in there. If it was missing then dispatch@empeg.com can send you another, or you can download it from our web site.

Rob

Thanks,
that's how I would have done it.
But there were so many comments about the (missing) floating ground that I got confused.

And I ground the amp and the empeg directly to the car;
And _not_ to the battery .... old rule: "Never connect anything to '-' of the battery directly."

And yes, I got the user guide...

4 days (and 400miles) to go without music ....

ciao
Anti


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MKII 08000073 12GB BLUE

Floating ground applied only to the Mk.1 player, which finished shipping around the end of last year. Don't worry about that - treat your Mk.2 just like you would any other line-level head unit.

As for grounding, there are many different ways - including running (thick) cables direct to the battery. If you can get a good ground from the chassis then that's usually fine, but the problem comes if there is a slight potential between the amp ground and the head ground. In general I advise trying the more straightforward techniques first, and only worrying about more complex installation methods if you need to (some cars are easier than others!).

If you do have any problems there's a wealth of knowledge and experience on here to help you out, or consider talking with a pro installer.

Rob

Well - grounding to the battery or the car - Doesn't make a difference. It works both. And if you short battery "-" and car then nothing happens 'cause it's the same level. - just wanted to mention that..

TeeMcBee
Got my Mk2! # 080000143

I was speaking to a stereo shop owner a while ago, and he told me something that is quite obvious, but I hadn't considered it...
When installing an amp you should run a power cable from the battery, then ground the amp to the chassis.
In some cases (Fords apparently) the negative wiring from the battery to ground is a bit marginal (He showed me a melted negative cable caused by a multi amp setup). So he advises that you should add an additional earthing strap from the battery to chassis (I used some 4 gauge)
Hope that helps somebody... =)

Jazz
(List 112, Mk2 12 gig #40. Mk1 4 gig #30. Mk3 1.6 16v)

Well,
have you ever tried to connect a "second car" directly to your battery ?
Especially to some of the new Fords ?

Well, if you can spare the 2000$ for the new parts (loads of melted cables) you can give them directly to me ...

Always ground as far away from the battery as possible.
Modern cars have very "strange" electrics ...

btw:
When I picked up my car, my dealer mentioned that he fixed 9 cars already this year because of this problem.

anti


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MKII 08000073 12GB BLUE

Well - quite strange. I never had this problem you're talking about. Someone should think a battery's ground should be the same thing.
But I've already seen some strange car's switching-logic. If you take for example the horn: On some cars both pins have +12V (measured to the car's ground and the car's battery ground) and if you use the horn then on of the +12V is taken to 0V so that the horn blows.
Strange things happen...

TeeMcBee
Got my Mk2! # 080000143

Makes the switch in the steering wheel much simpler too.

Well - I understand. But I found this concept on the backlights and on other electric items on some cars, too. But not every brand does it the same way.

TeeMcBee
Got my Mk2! # 080000143

Just wait a few years until the new 42V standards start rolling out, then things will get _very_ strange.

-Zeke

just say you weren't paying much attention...

Maybe then I've saved up enough money to let the install do by a professional.... But on the otherside I like working a bit on my car ...

TeeMcBee
Got my Mk2! # 080000143

But on the otherside I like working a bit on my car ...

Seeing as you own a Peugeot, that's probably fortunate.

OK, OK, I'll behave myself now.

tanstaafl.

"There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch"

"...by a professional..."

Yeah. I'm not sure I want a 42V shock, but I bet it makes bigger arcs than my 12 did (I fried three fuses installing).

-Zeke

just say you weren't paying much attention...

I drove 11.000 km now with it an I'm still satisfied. And the only reasons I stopped where red trafficlights!

I had more problems with a VW-Polo I had once... When I drove along it suddenly stopped without any reason. Then I had to connect the ignition indicator's + with battery's + and then I could start the engine again and it run for another few days...

..Or with my Mitsubishi Colt - It's gears broke - It was a fault from factory...
..Or with my Daihatsu Charade - It's shock-absorbers broke - first the left front, after a while the one on the right front...
..Or with my ... Well - I think that's been the worst things - except all those rusty things I had to mold ...

So don't say bad things about my nice Peugeot !!

TeeMcBee
Got my Mk2! # 080000143